Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Porusot 2022

During the mid 20th century is when Roulot really started to take off in popularity, despite it being founded in 1830, and being respected for its distillation, more so than vinification. However, Roulot’s 1973 Meursualt Charmes was awarded second place at Stephen Spurrier’s Judgement of Paris tasting in 76, just shy of Napa’s Ch. Montelena, spearheading the affirmation that Roulot is a truly quality producer.  Guy married Geneviève Coche (of Coche-Dury…), and bought vineyard areas around Meursault extremely astutely, developing a reputation for his single lieu-dit bottlings of Meursualt vineyards. Whilst these are not necessarily premier-cru sites, Tillets, Luchets, Tesson, Meix-Chavaux all possess an incredible identity, which Guy and Jean-Marc were able to demonstrate through the liquid. Other producers quickly followed suit in an effort to keep up with the revolutionary Roulots. 

Shortly after Guy passed away (in 1982), Jean-Marc, the current generation that was learning to become an actor in Paris returned to the domaine to take over. Slowly, he expanded to a respectable 15ha, purchasing some vines around Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet, too. 

But what makes these wines so special?! They are benchmark modern Meursault, and white Burgundy. Nobody makes Aligoté even close to Roulot…well, perhaps Sylvian Pataille in Marsannay may give Jean-Marc a close run for his money. In a time where Meursault was defined by fat, rich and opulent Chardonnay, with a lot of oak and oxidative character, Roulot went in the complete opposite direction, composing wines based on freshness, precision and tension, providing incomparable ageing potential. Roulot introduced sustainable viticulture quite early on, practicing organics and becoming officially certified in 2013.

Picking date is key, and Roulot picks characteristically early to maintain freshness and acidity needed for the wines to age over an extended period. Routlot goes one step further than picking early in the season by also picking early in the morning to receive even more acid in the grapes. Then, the grapes go through a rigorous selection process, which Jean-Marc is a key part of. Each grape must have the perfect balance of ripeness and acidity to achieve the quality required by the Roulots. 

In the winery, expect an exceedingly extended time of ageing: 12 months in oak, 6 in stainless steel, followed by a further 3 months in bottle. Battonage is a frequent occurrence with the oak maturation, stirring the lees into the wine to increase mouthfeel and body. Roulot’s bottles are beautiful weighted and textured, but never overbearing thanks to the bright acidity. The same meticulous process happens for the Aligoté (where the vines average 60 years of age) and the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne alike, treated with the same passion and flair. A real vinous joy to behold, and I’m thrilled you’ll be introduced to them.